For radiance and smoothness: 6 autumn peels

Autumn marks the transitional phase of skincare: after summer, skin is dehydrated, sun-damaged, and uneven in tone—and winter, with its dry air and fluctuating temperatures, is just around the corner. It's the perfect time for peels, which jump-start renewal processes and make skin more resilient to the stresses of the cold season. Cosmetologist Olga Makoed explains which options to choose to Kleo.ru.

– Why in autumn?

“Autumn isn't just peel season, but rather its beginning. Reduced solar activity allows for deeper treatments without the risk of complications like pigmentation. Furthermore, it's precisely at this time of year that skin needs the most help: after summer, it's dry and damaged.”

Peels are the first step in a course of autumn-winter treatments, usually followed by hardware and injection methods.

– What is the difference between superficial, medium and deep peels?

Superficial peels target the stratum corneum (the top layer of the skin). They gently exfoliate and refresh, with virtually no recovery time. They can be done fairly frequently—once a week or every 10-14 days for sensitive skin.

Medium-thickness treatments target the basal layers of the epidermis (the middle layer) and partially the dermis (the deepest layer). They help combat pigmentation, eliminate post-acne scars, and smooth out fine wrinkles. The recovery period lasts from 3 to 10 days.

Deep peels work at the dermal level and are effective for severe wrinkles, scars, and photoaging. However, these peels are rarely performed today: they are too traumatic, and recovery takes at least seven days. They have been replaced by more gentle hardware-based methods.

What peels to do in the fall

Salicylic acid . Suitable for oily, acne-prone skin. Reduces sebum production and inflammation, and evens out skin texture. A course of 4-6 treatments is recommended, every 7-10 days.

Pyruvic acid . Combats pigmentation and signs of photoaging, stimulates collagen production. Provides a brightening and rejuvenating effect. A course of 3-5 treatments is prescribed every 2 weeks.

Azelaic acid . Suitable for rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis. It has anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties and evens out skin tone. A course of 4-6 treatments is recommended, once every 1-2 weeks.

Jessner . A combination peel for skin with acne, post-acne, uneven texture, and pigmentation. The effect is noticeable, but there is a recovery period. Sun protection is also strictly required.

Retinoic (“yellow”) . A medium-depth peel that helps eliminate hyperpigmentation and reduce signs of photoaging. It improves skin tone, restores radiance, and evens out skin tone. It is performed 2-4 times per season, with 3-4 week intervals.

Glycolic . Suitable for dry and dull skin with first wrinkles. Evens skin tone, hydrates, and restores freshness. A course of 4-6 treatments every 7-10 days.

Contraindications: who should avoid them?

Absolute contraindications

• Acute inflammatory processes of the skin;
• dermatitis and eczema;
• active herpes;
• pustular rash;
• fresh skin lesions;
• oncological diseases;
• severe chronic diseases in the acute stage.

Relative contraindications (specialist consultation required)

• Fresh tan;
• taking systemic retinoids;
• tendency to keloid scars;
• rosacea in the acute stage.

Alternatives to peels

If you find any contraindications, consider these treatments – they also provide the effect of radiant, smooth, and healthy skin.

Enzyme peels and enzyme masks

Gently renews the epidermis without harshness. Suitable for sensitive skin and for the transition between seasons.

Hardware techniques

• Ultrasonic cleaning cleanses pores and improves microcirculation.
• Hydrafacial (hydropeeling) – vacuum cleansing and saturation of the skin with active serums.

Injection techniques

• Mesotherapy “delivers” vitamins and microelements to the skin.
• Biorevitalization replenishes the deficiency of hyaluronic acid and deeply moisturizes the skin.

Low concentration AHA and BHA acid treatments

Creams and serums containing these ingredients provide a gentle renewing effect and help maintain the results after salon treatment.