At Pitti Uomo, the celebrated Irish designer Simone Rocha unveiled a collection that masterfully blended tender romanticism with modern masculinity. Set against the opulent backdrop of Florence’s Teatro Della Pergola, the show presented a series of looks designed with distinct characters in mind, from artists to artisans, each exuding a grounded yet theatrical presence.
A New Era of Menswear Presentation
For her inaugural standalone menswear show, Rocha transformed one of Italy’s oldest opera houses into a stage where models showcased 38 unique ensembles. The garments, featuring delicate lace tops, ruffled technical outerwear, and fluid, relaxed tailoring, commanded attention not just on the runway but also as they traversed the ornate theater and mingled with the audience, embodying a performance art that felt both intimate and grand.
The collection’s aesthetic resonated with a profound sense of tenderness and authenticity, a sentiment Rocha herself conveyed when discussing the inspiration drawn from specific characters and the desire for them to “perform.” This approach offered a refreshing contrast to the often overly styled and accessorized ensembles seen outside the concurrent Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show, highlighting a more genuine expression of style.
Rocha described the collection as “tender, but also feels grounded,” a sentiment echoed in the seamless transition from voluminous tailoring to sophisticated knits and subtly suggestive aprons. While her men’s line launched in 2023, this focused presentation has clearly elevated her craft, allowing for a deeper exploration of masculine wardrobe codes and the deliberate carving out of her unique design space.
The result is Simone Rocha’s most cohesive and defining menswear collection to date. It artfully balances prep and punk influences, with pieces that are both pretty and provocative, flirtatious yet deeply felt. These are styles perfectly suited for the contemporary male archetype, hinting at future appearances on red carpets and at high-profile events.
Here, we explore key stylistic elements from the show that offer fresh inspiration for the discerning gentleman and highlight coveted pieces that embody this unique aesthetic.
Elevated Essentials: The Lace Top and Tailoring Fusion
Building on the subtle influence of textured shirts from recent seasons, Rocha introduced arresting lace tops and silken tunics with bow details. While some models showcased these pieces with bare arms, the most compelling applications involved layering them beneath relaxed tailoring. This styling offers a sophisticated evolution of the classic T-shirt-under-a-blazer combination, providing a distinct alternative to the current trend of shirtless suiting seen on some celebrities.
Romanticism Meets Performance: Technical Outerwear
The collection featured an array of distinguished outerwear, including rich nappa leather trench coats and stately English wool evening coats. However, the most compelling pieces were crafted from technical nylon. In a surprising turn, Rocha infused the gorpcore aesthetic with unexpected whimsy and drama through ruffled anoraks and embellished coach jackets, breathing new life into the utilitarian fabric.
Photos: Stefania M. D'Alessandro / Getty Images
A Novel Approach to Neckwear Styling
A direct nod to Rocha’s heritage appeared in looks featuring Fair Isle knit vests worn over soft-collared shirts and floral neckties. Paired with flowing pleated shorts and tailored trousers, these ensembles evoked the intellectual yet relaxed atmosphere of a university campus. The styling innovation lay in the unconventional placement of the ties, a departure from the common practice of tucking them into waistbands or shirt plackets, here applied distinctively to a cardigan.
The Resurgence of the Ballet Flat
Ballet flats have been gaining traction among fashion connoisseurs and notable figures for some time, and it appears they are on the cusp of broader acceptance. Offering a refined alternative to loafers, these delicate Mary Janes were featured on Rocha’s runway, lending an air of grace to ensembles ranging from tuxedos to rugby shirts. Rocha noted the silhouette’s appeal, citing its grounded, earthy feel combined with the refined elegance of its delicate strap.
Business Style Takeaway: Simone Rocha’s collection offers a sophisticated vision for the modern executive, blending classic tailoring with unexpected romantic details. Incorporating elements like refined layering and subtly expressive accessories can significantly enhance a man’s personal brand, projecting an image of thoughtful style and confident individuality.
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