Driven by social media, the rise of at-home solutions, and a growing interest in quality nail care products and healthier formulations, the nail care market has become an active platform for innovation for brands and suppliers. Below is an overview.
According to Kantar Worldpanel, 15.8% of French people aged 15 and over have purchased at least one nail polish in the last year, indicating that an average of 8.3 million people spent €12.6 million a year in this market.
“ At a global level, Euromonitor forecasts that the nail market will reach €5.6 billion in 2024 , representing a growth of 5.4% compared to 2023. This growth is driven in particular by the nail care category, which accounts for 14% of the total value. Current beauty trends play a key role in the progress made in this sector. For example, there is a rise in skinclusivity, which implies the inclusion of all types of consumers, hyper-personalization, as well as skinification, which means applying skincare logic to all parts of the body, including nails. Consumers are also looking for sensory and emotional experiences, following the Lazy Beauty trend, which focuses on simplicity and speed ,” explains Candice Jagut, Marketing and Innovation Director at Fiabila , a leading global supplier in this field. “ These changes are driving demand for long-lasting manicures, especially at-home UV gels, and premiumization of products including nail care products and even nail polish removers ,” she adds.
UV gels are now the driving force of the market
While standard nail polish is still relevant, it is being replaced by gel polish technology – a semi-permanent nail coating popular for its durability and professional, shiny look. These technologies are based on different formulations, application methods and areas of application.
Standard nail polish is made using evaporation technology of volatile solvents, pigments and resins. It air dries in minutes and is a quick and affordable solution that does not require special equipment.
UV gel is based on cross-linking technology. Its formula contains light-sensitive polymers that harden under UV or LED light. Each layer – base, color and top – is catalyzed separately to achieve a smooth, ultra-shiny finish that lasts up to three weeks. Removal is accomplished by soaking in acetone, using foil or even drilling into the nail surface, which can weaken the nail over time. Initially reserved for professionals, it has gradually become more widely used thanks to the advent of DIY application and removal kits that include portable LED lamps, allowing you to apply and remove gel polish at home.
The recent dominance of gel technology poses new challenges, such as the need to find solutions to combat aggressive removal and its impact on nail health, as well as the need to address environmental concerns associated with the formulas.
” Nail care and home manicure with UV gel are booming worldwide. UV gels and new technologies such as stripes and effects are very popular in the US. In Brazil, colors and effects remain in the top three, now sharing the place with nail care products. In Japan, science remains the main guideline to support the hybrid product market ,” emphasizes Jagut.
Towards healthier technologies
Already in 2020, French brand Manucurist launched Green Flash , the first bio-permanent nail polish available on the mass market. Developed with partner Fiabila, the product offers an alternative that can be removed just like regular polish, combining 12-day durability with a formula without controversial ingredients. Five years later, the brand boasts 600,000 Green Flash users worldwide, three million bottles sold and a turnover of 50 million euros.
“ We wanted to create safe formulas for both beauty professionals and consumers. In 2014, we launched the Green Biosourcé line, and in 2020, Green Flash, a semi-permanent nail polish. In the midst of the pandemic, when consumers were looking for at-home solutions and more eco-friendly approaches, this product proved to be the perfect solution and soon became incredibly popular ,” shares Camille Noh, the brand’s PR and communications manager .
Fiabila, a pioneer in bio-based formulas, now dedicates 10% of its worldwide workforce to research and development in its laboratories. In addition, dermatologist and nail specialist Dr. Bertrand Richer has recently joined the company’s scientific committee .